March 1981 Cuisine has Patricia Wells taking us through Brussels, where “even the street signs say food.” Is there really such a thing as Belgian cuisine? Some define it as French cooking married to German appetites. Others call French and Belgian cuisines as “twin sisters.” The director of Villa Lorraine restaurant comments that “We don’t have a Belgian cuisine, we have Belgian dishes.” Since this article and its suggestions of what to eat and where to explore are from 1981, there is so much more to add, but some things remain traditional like beer, butter, chocolate (Neuhaus!), game, Windmill Cookies, seafood, and Belgian endive. There is a recipe for a lovely and delicate Cream of Endive soup; at least six recipes for seafood; chicken, game, appetizer ideas, and a lemon soufflé with Pernod and fennel seeds. I was hoping for a recipe for the Windmill Cookies, or a Neuhaus chocolate to magically appear, but alas, neither happened.
Following the Brussels article is all about Savory Pies, such as a New England Fish Pie served with Crackling Biscuits; Braised Beef and Turnip Pie served with Baking Powder Biscuits; Pork and Cabbage Pie with Potato Biscuits; and Lamb Pie with Soda Bread.
A full page photo of a young and handsome Jacques Pépin shows us step-by-step how to prepare two ducks, using all the cuts in four different recipes: a Duck and Bean Casserole; Mock Peking Duck with Chinese Pancakes; Duck with Green Peppercorn Sauce; and a Duck Liver Pâté. One of Pépin’s favorite lessons is to prepare four interesting and elegant dishes such as these, using every part of the ducks, and demonstrates his dictum that “the more one gets involved in cooking, the less expensive it becomes.”
On that same note, the next article is about making a basketful of tempting breads from one basic rich buttery-sour cream dough. They all look beautiful, and definitely tempting. There is an apricot ring made with dried apricots, walnuts, cinnamon, cream, apricot jam, and orange liqueur. Chocolate Nut Coffee Cake uses cocoa powder, cinnamon and pecans; an almond roll has several spices and chopped almonds, rolled up, baked, and drizzled with a cream icing and topped with more almonds. The Cinnamon Coffee Cake dough is formed into twists and dusted with cinnamon-sugar. Cheese-Filled Coffee Cake uses currants, Cognac, cream cheese, and orange and lemon zest, then cut to look like a Bear Claw. (Is your mouth watering yet? I’m not even done!) Next is Apple Kuchen; Prune-Filled Crescents; Maple Sticky Buns; Orange-Honey Buns; Lemon Doughnuts; Honey-Peanut Bubble Cake; and the one I will make sometime soon I hope, the Cardamom-Lingonberry Braids.
The article titled “Oats, A Scottish Legacy” caught my attention since I am almost half Scottish and love finding recipes and cookbooks from Scotland. Oats are an important food source in Scotland and Ireland due to the cool and rainy climate. It first appeared long ago as hot porridge or dry crackers known as oatcakes and through the years the nutritional value became well known. Oats supply B vitamins, vitamin E, iron, calcium, protein, fiber, and many other minerals. They are used in a variety of dishes both sweet and savory. The recipes in this article included an Oatmeal Soup, Porridge, Oatcakes, Penmore Crab Cakes, and traditional dishes with names such as Skirlie Tomatoes, Sweet Bannock, Orkney Ginger Parkin, Cranachan, and Atholl Brose. I decided to make the Penmore Crab Cakes as I love crab cakes but have never made them with an oatmeal coating. Penmore refers to a mill located off the Isle of Mull where crabs are caught.
The crab cakes have a different look with a delicious crunch, and as mentioned the oats make for a healthy coating. I served them on a bed of arugula with lemon wedges. You could also make a tartar sauce if desired.
- 2 Tablespoons unsalted butter
- ½ cup finely chopped onions
- 2 eggs
- 8 ounces fresh lump crabmeat
- ¼ teaspoon table salt
- ⅛ teaspoon cayenne pepper
- ¼ cup plus 6 Tablespoons quick-cooking oats
- ⅓ cup vegetable oil
- Lemon wedges, arugula
- Melt butter in a small skillet over medium heat. When foam subsides, add onion. Sauté until onion is lightly browned, about 8 minutes. Remove from heat.
- Lightly beat 1 egg in medium bowl. Crumble crabmeat into bowl. Add onion, salt, and cayenne pepper. Stir in the ¼ cup of oats.
- Beat remaining egg in a small bowl; season to taste with additional salt and cayenne pepper if desired. Pour mixture onto a small plate. On another small plate place the 6 Tablespoons of oats.
- With dampened hands, shape ¼ cup crab mixture into 3-inch patties or logs. Repeat with remaining mixture making 8 crab cakes. Dip cakes into beaten egg, then roll in oats to coat. (Use more oats, if needed).
- Heat oil in medium skillet over medium heat until hot. Fry crab cakes in hot oil, a few at a time, turning, until golden brown, about 6 minutes. Drain on paper towels and serve hot with lemon wedges, and on a bed of arugula if desired.
Thank you for a peek into what seems to be a wonderful issue. There are so many dishes that pique my iinterest.
The photo of your crab cakes is beautiful. You’re a talented food photographer, Debbie!
What did you think of the recipe? How did it taste?
Thank you, Denise! I did like the crab cakes – nice and crunchy and I liked the added nutritional value with the oatmeal.
It sounds like a yummy contrast in textures and taste!